Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs

Questions and comments concerning the assembly of the Jointmaker Pro

Moderator: Michael

Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs

Postby Russell » Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:48 pm

Well, the missing parts arrived :D and I got the Jointmaker together. However, I seem to have two problems :( .

First, I cannot get the front edge of the saw blade teeth below the level of the sliding tables. I can crank the height adjustor all the way down and it looks as if the rear adjustor is bottoming out before the front of the saw is low enough. Is there any simple way to fix this, or do I have to disassemble everything and go back to steps 5 and 6? When I did those, BTW, I was very careful to follow the measurements given in the instructions.

Second question. The knobs that lock the keel in place, front and rear, are impossible to turn by hand. I had to use a large pair of Channelock pliers to turn them in far enough to actually lock the keel. It appears there was some kind of black crud inside the keel that the threads on the knob shaft had to cut through (this was true on both ends of the keel). In addition, there was some minor interference between one of the washers underneath the cap screws holding the keel down and the knob shaft threads (this too happened on both ends of the keel). By forcing the knob with the pliers, I was able to turn it all the way in so it would lock, but it still required the pliers to loosen it at that point.

-- Russ
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Postby John » Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:13 pm

Russ;

Geez, sorry to hear you have had so many issues--certainly this is not the norm for which I apologize.

Regarding the keel locking knobs--

The keel is anodized and the threaded holes in the keel that receive the locking knob studs are blind. We have seen cases where residue in these holes causes binding--it is rare and at the same time, not uncommon. Can you verify a white powder like substance in the threaded holes? If so, try vacating the holes with compressed air or similar method. If this is not the case, check to see if the threaded studs are actually rubbing against the arcuate cutouts in the front and rear plates--if this is the case, the keel is defective and we will send you a new one--we have had 3 or 4 cases like this. One of these two scenarios is likely the issue.

Regarding the blade and table top plane--the blade definitely needs to be able to be retracted below the top of the tables.

If the front edge of the blade is high, you do not need to repeat the steps in the manual to adjust. The rear shaft can be removed (4 screws) and you can adjust the front of the blade with the crank. When this shaft is removed you can also adjust the rear of the blade by turning the rear most bevel gear which will adjust the blade height at the rear. When the blade is parallel to the tables, you should be done and you can re-attach the rear shaft assy.

If this is confusing, or you are not sure, call us right away and we will talk you through it. Ask for Michael or me (I am off to teach at Marc Adams for two weeks so I might not be available.) If you are not comfortable making these adjustments we can send you an assembled keel assembly too. Let us know.

Again, sorry for your difficulties--all are solvable.

--John Economaki
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Postby Russell » Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:22 pm

Regarding the blind holes in the keel for the locking knob: there was no white powdery residue at all; both holes looked as if they weren't fully machined, that the threading in them had started but then petered out. Or, if they weren't supposed to be threaded at all, just hollowed out for clearance, that was clearly incomplete. So I guess that's a defective keel, as you described. Will you please send me a new one?

I can see how to adjust the saw blade, per your instructions, but I'm not going to bother to attempt it until I get the new keel delivered and installed.

I have to say, that the few problems I have had aside, this whole thing is a marvel of engineering. It's not "pretty" the way many Bridge City tools are, but it certainly is elegant and intriguing; I can't wait to finish the job and actually use it.
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Postby John » Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:44 pm

Russ-

Will do--please call 1-800-253-3332 today and ask for Michael--he will give you a couple of choices of what we will send you--if you call us before 3 PST we can have your keel to you tomorrow.

Not pretty? I agree, but the cuts are beautiful!

John Economaki

PS: We also need shipping info when you call.
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Postby Michael » Thu Apr 30, 2009 4:55 pm

Hi Russ,
Your keel will be there tomorrow. It is a fully assembled unit, so it will be quick for you to switch out.
Enclosed in the box is a return ups label. Please ship back your old keel assembly unit so that we can take a look at it.
Sorry about the problems!
Michael
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Re: Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs

Postby nick.with.a.z@gmail.com » Mon Nov 28, 2016 3:34 am

So... a little late... but finally managed to get my JMP set up on the weekend (after ordering it, had a child and life changed!). But I have the same problem as Russ - the keel locking knobs won't screw in.

I'm guessing you don't have too many replacement keels lying around nowadays, so I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see what's causing it. :-(
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Re: Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs

Postby nick.with.a.z@gmail.com » Tue Nov 29, 2016 3:34 am

Good news - cleaned the threaded holes out and then after inserting/removing the knobs several times (using some vice grips) its now ok.
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