Sharing a Resolved JMPv2 Issue from a JMPv2 User

Kinks and possible issues that lead to frustration

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Sharing a Resolved JMPv2 Issue from a JMPv2 User

Postby Consuelo » Thu Jun 09, 2016 4:18 pm

A JMPv2 user sent us an email not so long ago and experienced this issue:
I cut some 45 degree mitres in 1/4" softwood and got good results, then I tried to do the same in 3/4" stock and the bottom of the cut was square but as the cut got deeper it started to drift out of square and by the time it cut through the top of the mitre was 1/16" out of square. The set up was with the fence square and the blade tilted to 45 degrees, the stock was face down with the 2" face on the table 3/4" was the depth of cut and was clamped firmly both sides.
When I assembled the saw I carefully checked every stage, gears work smoothly on the keel, saw spine had a lot of lateral movement with .024 washers fitted, so I removed the washers and tried it and it was too tight then I tried some .008 washers it moved up and down but felt a little tight so then I tried .016 washers and this gave me very smooth winding up and down and took out all of the slop in the saw spine.
I have carefully squared the blade to the table using a steel rule, tried it on both tables and it looks to be very square, I have also done this with the blade tilted to 45 degrees and at table level it looks very good for square.
Both trunions are flush with the end plates with no slop, I can get a perfect square cut with the stock face down but another problem when I cut with the stock up on its edge it cuts square for most of the way but the last 3/16" curves away at the top.


Here are a few suggestions from John that helped remedy his issue:

I am going to list several things that can cause what you are experiencing and they are in no particular order

1) The stock needs to be firmly clamped to the table(s). I cannot emphasize enough the importance of having the stock completely immobile. Basically, you cannot OVER CLAMP ever.
2) Prior to cutting any miter, double and triple check that the table travel is parallel to the saw blade. It is easy to get this out of whack when making miters. (STEP 22 of your manual)
3) Whenever I get whacky results, I always put in a new blade to eliminate the blade as a culprit. Dull blades, bent blades, and blades with kinks do not yield good results.
4) Depth of cut with miters needs to be carefully monitored. I take many more passes to make miters than I do for a 90 degree crosscut. Sometimes the chips don’t clear as efficiently when the blade is tilted. With miters, I usually make 1/8 turns of the crank per pass, maybe less if it is a really hard wood. I like my cuts to feel like I am barely cutting. Lots of passes with little bite.
5) Make sure that the face of the BLACK blade guide, the part that touches the blade, is planar with the saw spine face that the blade is pinched against with the screws.
6) Lastly, if the stock width is 3” or less, I cut miters using the adjustable arm of the precision fence. This allows me to keep the blade vertical.


I hope this helps those who may have encountered something similar!

Happy woodworking!

- Consuelo
Consuelo
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:37 pm

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