SuperCharge Your Jointmaker Pro: Manual Correction/Updates

Questions and comments concerning the assembly of the Jointmaker Pro

Moderator: Michael

SuperCharge Your Jointmaker Pro: Manual Correction/Updates

Postby Consuelo » Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:55 pm

We would like to make you aware of an error in the 2014 production run’s Jointmaker Pro manual (but all owners should review the two suggestions below):

On page 10, Box 11, Step One, the manual reads:
1. Attach the Black Saw Guide to the left side of the front and rear spine guides. The outside face of the Black Saw Guide should be perfectly flush with the outside faces of both Spine Guides.

Correction: The outside face of the Black Saw Guide should be proud of the outsides faces
of both Spine Guides by approximately 0.020”.

Explanation: We changed how we made the saw guides and are now using an extrusion. The geometry from the extrusion die is approximately 0.020” larger than from previous runs. Hence the change. This adjustment aligns the face of the saw guide that touches the blade with the face of the saw spine that the blade is clamped against. Those two faces need to be planar and this adjustment accomplishes that.

Here’s a fast way to accomplish the alignment of those two faces.
1) If a saw blade is inserted remove it.
2) Remove the Champagne Saw Guide – don’t lose your shim washer(s)!
3) Raise the saw spine to its highest position.
4) Using a 6” pocket rule, clamp the rule in the saw spine at the rear using the screws that normally tighten the blade.
5) Adjust the Black Saw Guide until the face is flush with the ruler face and slightly snug the screw.
6) Repeat at the front. (If you have two 6” rules, this is really fast). Once both ends are flush, tighten the Saw Guide screws and you will never need to adjust this again.

The pics below illustrate the setup:


This is worth checking regardless of the model year of your JMP. If the face of the black saw guide is not planar with the back face of the saw spine, it makes it difficult to get cuts that don’t drift.

Here’s a tip worth considering that makes a dramatic difference in the effort required to move the tables on the guide rails.

There are 8 linear bearings on your JMP. On the end of each bearing is a rubber seal with a small protruding ridge. This ridge was designed to sweep the shaft but it is, in my opinion designed incorrectly. It can, and has in a couple of cases collapsed and makes the bearing almost unbearably difficult to push. We are recommending that you carefully remove all 16 little ridges with a razor blade. The difference is unbelievable.

Make a small slice in the ridge and you can pull the bead off with needle nose pliers. Sometimes it comes off clean, sometimes it comes off in little pieces, either case, it is worth removing. Remove just the ridge, nothing else!

We have noticed no issues with the bearings after prolonged use and am now comfortable in suggesting you make this modification.

Here is a close up of the bead on the rubber seal:

Any really sharp edges makes this easy, here we are using an HP-6 iron:

This is what it looks like when complete:

Follow these instructions and your JMP will work as intended!
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