Keel assembly

Questions and comments concerning the assembly of the Jointmaker Pro

Moderator: Michael

Keel assembly

Postby tnimble » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:02 am

The manual states
When properly assembled gears should spin smoothly with no longitudal movement in the rear shaft


What is defined as spin smoothly? The gear bearings in the keel and the bearing blocks are all acetyl / Delrin / Nylon and therefore have some friction to them. When both the front and rear shaft are mounted to the keel and are correctly aligned all frictions add up. It is clear (and unwanted as the saw blade height could change by putting pressure on the blade) that spinning smoothly would not be rotating at high velocity for several seconds at a single push.

Also how exact is the 22.2mm of the rear height screw assembly? I guess around 22mm will do?
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Postby John » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:46 am

When assembling the bearing blocks to the keel, it is important to keep them square to the keel so the holes are axial.

When all are aligned, the shafts will spin smoothly (no slop) but not necessarily "freely" as the tolerances are tight as you point out. When you get the crank handle attached, it will feel like a precision instrument. In other words, a little friction is important.

Yes, 22mm works.

Give us a call if you would like further clarification 1-800-253-3332.

John
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I'm glad you posted that.

Postby BobMetzger » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:08 pm

I just put my JMP together yesterday and really could not get
a feel for how smooth/free it was supposed to turn. I really thought
I was going to be in trouble because it was too tight.

I just kept going because I knew there was a "test" later on and
I found it was much easier to turn than I had expected once the
crank handle was on the shaft.

The instructions are very good and I enjoyed the process. I hope other
users will share experiences here on this forum.

I look forward to inspiration from others!!!!
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Postby John » Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:10 am

Bob-

That is EXACTLY how it is supposed to feel--stiff without the crank, smooth as butter with the crank. Congrats! Now get off this board and go make some squiggle wood for practice!

John
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Stiff crank

Postby CMKACO » Sat Mar 14, 2009 3:16 pm

I got my JMP complete. It cuts very very nice. I was able to get it set at a nice 90 degree angle and then I cut some nice thin pieces of oak off the end of a 3/4 by 1 1/4 inch oak stick. I got the cutoffs down to about .0260 inches. I was also able to shave just a sawblade's worth off the end of the stick and leave a nice smooth finish. This saw will do things, that right now, I am sure I can't even imagine, and I am looking forward to discovering many new applications for accurate, quite, work.

The one concern I have is that the crank is a bit stiff. After reading John E's post from March 11 this morning, I went back and rechecked the block for alignment and square and reset everything (I had not installed the keel in the saw frame yet. I completed it later in the day, but now it seems sort of stiff still. It is precise, but it feels stiff, not really smooth, if that means anything. I tried loosening the blocks (the ones you can get to, because one set is covered by the back spline holder), and that really did not help. Is there something else I should do?
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Postby John » Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:57 pm

Don't worry about anything-you are doing great!

Michael and I have had several "man to man" cut-off contests in the office when we both should be doing other things. The record for thinness in oak (3/4" x 3") is .007" --so far I won.

And I am officially retired. You see, if he beats me, then he is likely to ask for a raise.

It is getting complicated--trust you understand.

And you did hit the nail on the head--the Jointmaker Pro will cause you to lose sleep simply because you can now do things unimaginable as late as last week.

Congrats on getting your saw together. Now it's time for some projects!

John
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Postby Doug » Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:22 am

John wrote:Bob-

That is EXACTLY how it is supposed to feel--stiff without the crank, smooth as butter with the crank. Congrats! Now get off this board and go make some squiggle wood for practice!

John


Now I'm wondering if I should tighten up the screws a bit more. I noticed that if the screws into the bearing blocks are just a bit too snug that it's very stiff without the crank. The manual also had the caution about overtightening so I backed off a bit on the screws and everything spins very smooth. No side-to-side slop that I can tell, but this sounds like I shouldn't be able to turn it very easily without the crank installed?
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Postby Michael » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:02 am

Doug,
I would wait until you attach the crank handle to test the drivetrain. You will get a better sense of the friction then.
Ensure that the screws are at least tight, and that the bearing blocks do not move at all. Slightly backing off is fine if you like the feel in the end but we find that the tension on the crank shaft creates a nice resistance.

BTW, I have not shown John my best cuts...I did not want to embarrass him. I like to let him think he has won...
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby chris@kniker.net » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:25 am

How important is ZERO longitudinal movement in the saw spine when assembling the Keel? If I get a slight amount of play, is that OK?

Whenever I try adjusting the Spine guides (backward and/or forward) to take up the slack in the saw spine, the action of lowering/raising the spine is no longer as "smooth as butter"....

i.e. I can't seem to get both a smooth turning transmission AND zero longitudinal movement in the saw spine.

I've watched all the videos on the subject and read as many posts as I can get my hands on. The bearing blocks and spine guides appear to be perpendicular to the keel. I'd appreciate any advice or helpful assistance.

As an aside, this Keel is part of a JM-SW (not a JMP-V2) but I presume the details are the same.

Thanks in advance,
Chris
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby Michael » Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:19 pm

Hi Chris,
It is ok to have a a little bit of play.
It is possible that you may need an extra shim washer.

Are you finding that you can crank the blade up, but it binds a bit on the way down?
As a test, loosen 1 screw on each Saw Blade Guide (the black and gray parts that sandwich the blade).
Now try the crank again.

If it is running smoothly, I can send an additional shim washer for you to insert between the Saw Blade Guide and the Uprights.

You will have a tiny bit of longitudinal play, but it will be ok.

- Michael
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby chris@kniker.net » Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:37 am

Thanks for the advice, Michael.

And thankfully, I won't need any extra shim washers... when I tried to tackle the keel again last night, all the binding from the previous night had gone away!

Must have been that bath tub of Tri-flow I soaked the Keel in overnight. :)

Seriously, though, I applied a couple of drops of Tri-flow to the Uprights (where it bears against the saw spine). This may have helped with the binding. Or maybe I got lucky....

Chris
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby Michael » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:46 am

A little bit a lube on the Saw Guide Uprights can indeed help a lot. Glad you got it all dialed in!

MIchael
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby j.lopresti@gmail.com » Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:57 am

I'm just assembling my JMP2 and I find that with the saw guides tightened, the mechanism binds to the point that the gears slip on the shaft. I think I need two more shims(?) When I back off the non-shim screws, she's as smooth as can be.
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby John » Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:09 am

To answer your question I am asking that you refer to Step 11 in the manual.

1) Completely remove both the black (typo in the manual says "Back")and champagne saw guides, shim washers too.

2) Adjust the FRONT SPINE GUIDE so the orange Saw Spine moves up and down with little to no play between the front and rear spine guides. This should feel absolutely smooth as all get out. FYI, the rear spine guide is pinned to the keel and is non-adjustable.

3) Once you have the correct action, slide in one saw guide and screw tight on one end only! Note the gap on the opposite end between the saw guide and the spine guide. If you can easily slide in the provided shim washer, then you do indeed need another.

4) The thickness of the additional shim washers can be closely estimated by using typing paper shims (approx. 0.003" each) in addition to the shim washers provided. If you have a set of pin gages you can find out which pin fits. Either case, do your best to estimate what additional thickness you require and contact us for the necessary shim washers.

That said, since you cranked the train until the gears started to slip, you may need to send us your assembled keel for gear replacements. Either case, we will get you up and running ASAP.

-John
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Re: Keel assembly

Postby j.lopresti@gmail.com » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:10 pm

Thanks, John. Only after watching the video did I realize two sets of shim washers were usually shipped. I only got one set, so (sorry) I fashioned new shims from brass washers, slicing the edges off so they would not stick out. Seems fine now. There is a tiny amount of lateral play, but that seems normal. Post script: Now that the machine is adjusted, there's no play at all.
Last edited by j.lopresti@gmail.com on Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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