Jointmaker continued

Discuss general thoughts on the Jointmaker Pro.

Moderator: Michael

Jointmaker continued

Postby Blair » Tue Aug 11, 2009 12:59 pm

I keep checking this blog and I'm not sure why the feedback is not greater than it is. I fully expected to see weekly additions on new ideas or at least questions. I love my new tool and I'm trying out different ways to use it. I'm currently trying to figure the best way to hold small pieces of wood with unusual grain and use the rip blade. The tiny kerf means amost exact pattern matches for thick veneer inlays. I know I'm limited to how long a piece I can rip but the more I experiment, the better I get. Let's keep the posts coming so the new ideas keep flowing!


I want to see more of John's creative energy here!
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Postby rwest » Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:03 am

Hi Blair,

I agree with you, I think that there must be some real cool things happening in peoples' shops with the JMP. I have some good ideas that I'm slowly getting done and will post photos. I would love to see photos of what you're doing too , sounds interesting! Open a Flickr account(free) and follow Michaels excellent instructions under the "posting photos" section on the forum. It's pretty easy and will hopefully encourage others to share their ideas too.

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Postby John » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:24 am


Ever wonder why we have such great sales in the summer? It is because our customers are not in their shops and typically don't go back until school starts and we are all stuck here figuring out how to pay the bills...

First, I would not recommend using the rip blade on really small stock--the standard cross-cut works great. And, if it is really small, use the super fine blade (this blade is incredible but does not track straight over 3/4" because of it's super thin nature). FYI, I only use the rip blade for tenon cheek cuts, when there are lots of dovetails and other related, and obvious rip cuts.

I am out of town at the moment, but I made a really cool discovery on my JMP that I will share in a video when I get back.

Basically I am having a ball with my chess set design and one thing happened during an experiment where after a cut, I was more interested in the falloff piece (really small) than the experiment. This leads to a new way of creating really small pieces--what is great about it is the surface is so smooth, no further work is needed. I don't know how I could achieve the same result on purpose any other way. So maybe one way to look at your work holding issues is to re-think the approach--of course it is always nice when it happens by accident and is repeatable!

Anyway, hope this helps.


PS: If you have friends who are interested in the second run of the JMP, let them know that they need to get on the email notification list--we anticipate beginning the second run this fall.
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