table saw sled

Moderator: Michael

table saw sled

Postby » Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:52 am

put together my sled yesterday and it went together as advertised. my only problem/issue was the 7/16" forstner bit. i have three different forstner sets and not one 7/16" bit. used the 1/2" bit and with the exception that more sawdust might be collected in the recess, i do not see any problems.

i want to place a veneer on the front and back edges and possibly place a safety piece behind the back bridge to keep my hands out of the the saw kerf area if i over push the table.

i picked up the mdf pieces at home depot and they were a little more expensive than the west coast quote but well worth it not to have to wrestle with a heavy full sheet.

had not planned to open up my jmp precision fence "the works" box but needed to see the fences on for the complete look.

john and crew, thanks for all of the work you guy did these past few weeks getting these things put together and shipped. looking forward to the jmp precission class at masw's this spring. hopefully with some practice time under my belt this winter i won;t be the rank amateur in the class. na matter, i look forward to learning a lot.

happy holidays and enjoy your time off. looking forward to a great anniversary year in 2013 for bctw.

regards, dave

hopefully i did the pics correctly.
precision fence attached
DSC00603.JPG (145.93 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
kerf cut
DSC00600.JPG (145.6 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
rails attached
DSC00599.JPG (136.34 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
mdf abutted and screwed
DSC00598.JPG (140.71 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:43 am

Re: table saw sled

Postby » Wed Jan 02, 2013 4:26 pm

in the prior post, i said i wanted to apply a veneer to the front and back of the sled and attach a safety piece at the bottom to protect my hands in the event of an over push. the attached pics show what i did.

i used some scrap oak and on the top edge of the sled i applied a 1 1/2 inch piece which overlaid the sled by 1 inch. it in essence was flush with the front of the top bridge. the sled package had 8 additional nuts, bolts, and washers which i'm guessing were to be used for a fixed fence. since i had the adjustable fence, i just used these, in addition to glue, to hold on the oak veneers at the front and back. recessed them top and bottom like was done for the rails and the bolts just acted like small clamping devices to assist in the gluing process. the bottom oak piece was made from an original piece which was 4+ inches in width. with the exception of the fan out in the center of the piece, the rest was 2 inches wide with a 1 inch overhang on the mdf. again, glued and screwed.

processed an over sized piece of poplar to about 1x3x24 and jigged up a router rube goldberg to dovetail the back so that i would have an elongated fixed fence face to use on what otherwise would have been the adjustable mechanisms holding the micro adjustable fences. the jig was off a little and the bottom of the fixed fence is just off the mdf table. had processed a second piece so that can/will be fixed. however, since the fence is held by the dovetailed clamps, i'm not sure that resting hard on the table is an issue. at any rate, i squared up the fixed fence and cut a test piece which came out a light tight 90 degrees. so i'm satisfied this will be ok.

took off the fixed fence piece and attached the adjustable fences and included pics of those as well. the fences can go through their full motions without any interference from the veneer so i think things are good.

next step it to reconfigure my jmp to accept the new fences and then i will be ready to make little pieces of wood from larger pieces of wood.
top view looking back on adjustable fence
DSC00608.JPG (143.88 KiB) Viewed 6592 times
bottom view with the adjustable fences attached
DSC00607.JPG (144.26 KiB) Viewed 6592 times
view from top showing top and bottom veneer as well as the fixed fence
DSC00606.JPG (138.81 KiB) Viewed 6592 times
bottom veneer with fixed fence attachedt
DSC00605.JPG (145.34 KiB) Viewed 6592 times
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:43 am

Re: table saw sled

Postby » Thu Jan 03, 2013 7:06 am

That's a good idea for the safety block. I did a similar thing on a conventional table saw sled I made years ago. I have a block of ash that will totally contain the blade at max height. I also added a stop bolt below the overhang on the left side of the sled that hits a stud mounted horizontally from the side of the saw table. This way I can never saw completely through the stop block.
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:16 pm

Re: table saw sled

Postby » Thu Jan 03, 2013 8:12 am

my sled was mounted on an old powermatic table saw and my cast iron top is about 4 feet square so i do not have any side overhang of the sled. i probably would be smart to construct a stop but am inclined to think it would be a removable peg on my out feed side which extends three feet beyond the cast iron. because the fence sits significantly forward of the bridge there would be no reason on a straight cut to have the blade go through the safety block at the back. using the adjustable precision fence at a 45 degree angle is a different matter. will look at that.

while the block does not extend beyond the full height of the blade i can build it up if need be. i wanted some level of buildup at the back to avoid the tendency to push on the bridge. even anchored with four bolts, i think over time it would be too easy to gradually break down the mdf at the bolt holes. the raised block at the back keeps my fingers away from the blade area and keeps me from pushing on the bridge.
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:43 am

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