Calibrating with the micro adjusters

[sailforfun15@mac.com]

I'm clearly not understanding the calibration instructions. Here are abbreviated insructions with my comments:

1. Rapid traverse the Blue stop as close as possible to the 4.5" mark "reading" the stop edge closest to the saw blade.

Actually I need to read the stop edge farthest from the saw blade. I also can't quite get on the 4.5 exactly, just as the instructions say.

2. Use micro adjuster until 56 is aligned with the [micro adjuster] cursor.

3. Make a test cut.

4. The blue stop is now set to 4.556.

No, its not, because I haven't done anything to calibrate yet. Given the slop in the bridge and the fact that the fence can slide along fence bases, I suspect the fence will need to calibrated each time it is removed and replaced.

5. If the cut, checked with calipers is another length, say 4.553, adjust the outer ring to read 53 and the fence is calibrated.

Moving the outer ring also shifts the blue stop, so are we supposed to release the lead screw using the red knob? Or just slide the entire fence or just adjust the graduated rail?

Also, nothing on the black stops appear to align with the graduated rail, so there seems to be no way to directly set a black stop to a desired measurement without doing a bit of math. Simple enough, but it seems odd to have a scale that cannot be directly used and the inconsistency (between the black and red stops) increases the chance of use errors.

Some videos on set up and using the fences for angles, dovetails, etc. would be appreciated. The ones for the jointmaker help a lot.

Todd

[Michael]

- The numbers used in the Instruction Manual are a hypthetical example. Your actual numbers will vary and you will need to adjust accordingly.

- Each time you remove the fence you will need to recalibrate.

- The black outer ring can move independently of the blue knob. Hold the blue knob while rotating the black ring.

- The black finger stops do not correlate to the graduated rail. Only the blue stops relate to the rail.

- We will be doing a video this week.

Thanks!
Michael

[hcstoops@comcast.net]

Great video,but it breezes thru the calibration too fast and incomplete. I couldn't tell which side or what the setting was on the blue stop.
The instructions are wrong like Todd explains. I fooled around with this for a day,reading the forum and re-reading the forum and watching the video. I was always an inch off. Finally I figured out it was the outside of the blue stop on both sides of the saw that should be read. And once calibrated on both blue stops, not to fast track the blue stop otherwise it has to be recalibrated. If you want to move from an inch to seven inches it takes a lot of screwing to move the blue stop all that way.
The way I found to set the black stop accurately was to cut a spacer the length you want to set the black stop using the blue stop, then use that to set the black stop. The scale can't be used unless you do some fancy calculations.


Herb