I'm clearly not understanding the calibration instructions. Here are abbreviated insructions with my comments:
1. Rapid traverse the Blue stop as close as possible to the 4.5" mark "reading" the stop edge closest to the saw blade.
Actually I need to read the stop edge farthest from the saw blade. I also can't quite get on the 4.5 exactly, just as the instructions say.
2. Use micro adjuster until 56 is aligned with the [micro adjuster] cursor.
3. Make a test cut.
4. The blue stop is now set to 4.556.
No, its not, because I haven't done anything to calibrate yet. Given the slop in the bridge and the fact that the fence can slide along fence bases, I suspect the fence will need to calibrated each time it is removed and replaced.
5. If the cut, checked with calipers is another length, say 4.553, adjust the outer ring to read 53 and the fence is calibrated.
Moving the outer ring also shifts the blue stop, so are we supposed to release the lead screw using the red knob? Or just slide the entire fence or just adjust the graduated rail?
Also, nothing on the black stops appear to align with the graduated rail, so there seems to be no way to directly set a black stop to a desired measurement without doing a bit of math. Simple enough, but it seems odd to have a scale that cannot be directly used and the inconsistency (between the black and red stops) increases the chance of use errors.
Some videos on set up and using the fences for angles, dovetails, etc. would be appreciated. The ones for the jointmaker help a lot.
Todd