"What the hell am I gonna do with the v1 tables/ways ??

A discussion about the second version of the Jointmaker Pro

Moderator: Michael

"What the hell am I gonna do with the v1 tables/ways ??

Postby savatteridesigns » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:21 pm

Hey JMP'ers . . .

To help stir the energy there, as well as pushing myself to post more - I'll be starting my "Tip -10" plan.
Which means I'll be coming up with a tip (or jig) to BC forum users every 10 days ( a week is just too short) regarding the JMP (for both v1 & v2 versions), & at times the combination of other BC tools - that I'll commit myself to. A little deadline every so often never hurts and would clear any cobwebs forming in my brain. I'll start with a 3 month test and see how it goes.

I'll start the "Tip-10" posts with the subject of . . .
"What the hell am I gonna do with the old tables/ways after I order the upgrade rails?".

The first post is my first crude test version - to see using two tables working on the original ways,
(in an upcoming version I would use the threaded holes on the tables to join them together)

Personally, I feel fortunate that I ordered the v! version when I did - creatively it just seems to give one more options when combining multiple tables.
I will be posting more tips on the subject at the next 10 day mark.


cheers,
roger

Tip-10 #1 . . .

JMPv1- 2 table set-up for cutting shallow & irregular long rips
(with the 3 rd table option - the upgraded rail/table could be used here with the table clamped to the rail on the outside so it doesn't move)

Keep in mind I also have a four table jig coming up in my next "Tip-10" post, one could get extra tables by the small market that will ensue on the trading corner on BCTW forum by those that feel they don't want the extra tables after getting the upgrades.


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1. essentially using the two left tables for a thin rip cut, one could flip around the right table and join them on one side.


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2. here I'm using the block on the right table as a stop, to first trim test piece. (I'll be jumping to the angled cut below)

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3. the cut piece next to the ruler .......15 1/4 inches

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4. setting up for a non parallel cut, I'm using the clamp as a handle.

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5. the cut

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6. down the line I could envision one long clamp block with slots.

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7. So, this could be the start of a backgammon set!


Coming up in 10 days,
Tip-10 #2 Using the 4 table set up.
savatteridesigns
 
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Postby rwest » Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:22 pm

Bravo Roger,

Your "tip-10" idea is fantastic! I will join you in this endeavor, but I will focus on the DJ-1 in the begining and then maybe do some on the JMP and also some on the HP-6. I may have to extend my interval though, ten days might be too often for me during the winter since I ride my bicycle to work, and in the cold and snow it makes for a ridiculously long day!(but still much more pleasant than driving on the freeways!)

A clarification please; When cuting boards longer than the normal limitation of the JMP, do you elevate the stock to get the blade clearance? and if so do you raise the whole board equally or just lift the leading edge to start the cut? I'm happy to see you had good luck with the long cut, I had tried to do this with a Paduak box, to free the lid, but did a poor job clamping it and actually ended up imbedding a few of the teeth into the wood! Ouch!

I'm currently waiting on a few supplies to arrive, so I can built my next DJ-1 jig. I hope to have them by this weekend and a jig posted soon after.

-Rutager
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Postby rwest » Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:33 pm

Roger,

One more request: could you explain how you fit the two tables together, maybe even show an under table photo?

Thanks, Rutager
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Postby savatteridesigns » Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:41 pm

Rutager,

Thanks for the feedback!

Regarding lifting the workpiece in order to get a running start,
Good question!
And yes - one needs to do that. If you notice under the piece of spalted maple is sitting a 1/8"th piece of ply. Keep in mind that for this experiment I had my rear pitch all the way down. So the ply cleared the last tooth. Now if you are going to work with a raised pitch angle for the blade - your backing plate height will be equal to the height of your rear pitch ( the height of the top of the tooth to the tabletop -in the rear)......actually a tiny bit more. At this point for the ease of clamping I would elevate the whole workpiece.

BTW, regarding the every 10 day thing, I know what you mean... keep in mind that not every ten days will be a new jig, a tip may not always be a jig - but a new way of doing something or to aid one's methodology.

Looking forward to your new Dj-1 jig.

-Roger
savatteridesigns
 
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Postby savatteridesigns » Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:49 pm

rwest wrote:Roger,

One more request: could you explain how you fit the two tables together, maybe even show an under table photo?

Thanks, Rutager


In this case all I used was that grey bessey K-body clamp which held the two tables together by virtue of holding firm either side of the blue angled fence for the first cut, in the second cut you'll see to the left a large Quick-grip clamp planted on the left of the table. (Also using the bar as a push handle) By next week I'll have more photos up on the way I intend to join them for future set-ups.

-Roger
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