Offset/Notching Custom Jaws.

Moderator: Michael

Offset/Notching Custom Jaws.

Postby rwest » Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:33 pm

Hi,

I've built a set of custom jaws that allow a bit that is larger than the stock to be used in the DJ-1. Using a larger bit will make a coping type cut that could be used to join smaller stock(rectangular or circular) to a cylinder. For example if you wanted to make a handrail that was 1 1/2" in diameter and wanted to mount it to the wall with 3/4" stock you would put the 3/4" stock into the jaws and use a 1 1/2" forstner bit to drill through the stock, giving you a curve that perfectly "hugs" the rail. Please note: that these jaws mount to the custom jaw set that are posted under the "Custom Jaws for Curved Work" thread.

Using round stock:

Image


Using square stock:

Image

Here are the jaws:

Image

Spacer blocks to hold the DJ-1 jaws:

Image

Jaws and spacer blocks on 1/4" ply with slots: The slots allow the jaws to be placed at an angle if you want your stock to meet your cylinder at a angle.

Image
Image

Dowel ready to be drilled. Note the srap stock clamped beneath the dowel to prevent "blowout" when the bit exits. Ialso found that wrapping the dowel in blue tape helped to get a clean cut.

Image

-Rutager
rwest
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:59 pm

Postby John » Fri Jan 15, 2010 4:19 pm

Rutager;

Awesome! How are you indexing the dowel stock so your cheeks are planar?

-John
John
Site Admin
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:54 am

Postby rwest » Fri Jan 15, 2010 4:52 pm

John,

I put some effort into keeping everything square, so in this case I used a bushing to line up the orange jaws to the back bushing hole and because the dowel was pretty small I could push the top of the orange jaws to touch the bottom of the DJ-1. On larger stock I could use a square or bevel to line up the angle, and would probally cut spacers to index from the top.

-Rutager
rwest
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:59 pm

Postby John » Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:56 pm

Rutager;

If it is not too much trouble, I think this would be more clear to newbies if you were able to show a pic of the tenon with the curved shoulder--right now it is implied but not seen.

Impressive. Gives me ideas!

Thanks for sharing. Now I do believe we are offering prizes for such ideas so one is coming your way.

--John
John
Site Admin
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:54 am

Postby PFranks » Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:04 am

That's beautiful, Rutager. Definitely worthy of whatever cool prize John's sending your way. I love the way you make your jigs as elegant as the BCTW tools they complement.
PFranks
 
Posts: 63
Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 2:59 pm

Postby savatteridesigns » Sat Jan 16, 2010 1:59 am

.
Rutager,

That's a very graceful & beautiful jig, thank you for sharing!
Gosh, I feel like I'm on a tennis court & you just served!
Now I need to come up with another jig in order to return your serve!

There is one question I have though,
On your two examples ...
round stock seat on round & square stock seat on round,
on those two examples are you then drilling for a dowel union or using a floating tenon to actually join the two together?
Or are you just using a dab of super glue? :D

ps.. while I was writing this it just occurred to me that on Festool's Dominio they have no adapting-jig to mortice into round stock.

.
savatteridesigns
 
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:51 pm

Postby rwest » Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:39 am

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the compliments!

John,

In the interest of full disclosure, I have already received my prize for the Curved Work Jaws! But will gladly accept any and all other prizes(with the exception of Peter's back issues of Modern Oceanographer!)

Roger,

If anything, I still need to keep serving, as I'm way behind you in the JMP catergory!

-What are these "glues and tenons" you speak of? If you look at the photos you can see that I'm using the DSS-6 and a hammer to keep the cylinder from rolling because the stock is just sitting on it! These were just test cuts with scrap to see if the concept would work, but since I'm a good sport, I drilled and put in some fluted 1/4 dowels and took some more pictures:

Image

Installed on the cylinder with dowels:

Image

I hope this was helpful. I would suggest to everyone to build a "T" slotted platform, as it is very useful in mounting jaws to and I will be making several other jaws that mount to them. Another thing worth mentioning is that I just checked my DJ-1 list and I still have 9! more custom applications to build! Stay tuned.

-Rutager
rwest
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:59 pm

Postby savatteridesigns » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:40 am

.

So that's what the hammer was doing there!

Very nice, Rutager ...... your story needed those last shots!

Roger

.
savatteridesigns
 
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:51 pm

Postby John » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:44 am

Rutager;

Thanks for the pics, that is not how I pictured your joint, I assumed you were making an integral tenon with curved shoulders--the dowel works but an integral tenon would be much stronger--and completely doable!

I am also not sure of coping the purely round tenon since it would fit into a round hole cleanly.

That said, you have given me ideas...

To join a rectangular cross section piece to a round member (not a common joint for the obvious reasons), I would take your idea one step further.

I would cut the mortises prior to turning (if possible) while the stock was square. The DJ-1 does this well.

I would use a forstner bit with the smallest spur possible to cut each cheek of the tenon, and it is not hard to make the cheeks planar to each other--I have a real simple trick that I will post later. The depth of the forstner bit will need to be restrained accordingly of course. Really easy to make a depth stop with the DJ-1 & JMP and a dowel. (I also think one could use a router bit in the DJ-1 for flat bottomed cuts..and these have predictable shank diameters.)

Whether the mortises are squared off or left as a radii doesn't matter, one of the members with either choice will need a bit of hand work for a squeak fit.

I am on my work retreat and I think I want to design universal adapter jaws so you folks can concentrate on ways of using these to shorten the development time of your ideas.

Thoughts?

Roger; Rutager has indeed served and he is playing one against two--I feel behind as well.

Great thread.

--John
John
Site Admin
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:54 am

Postby rwest » Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:31 pm

John,

Thanks for not letting me get "sloppy!" I went back downstairs and made a proper curved shoulder tenon and posted it under a new thread.

Adapter jaws would be fantastic, I think the set I'm using with the "T" slots works very well to hold many types of custom jaws. The main drawback that I have found is that it is a big pain to tighten down the jaws because the screws are on the inside, not a big deal when wide stock is being used, but a pain when doing smaller scale work. I would like to see a way to adjust from the bottom or the outside. The bottom might be better as the outside could interfere with a vise or clamps. I also think a dovetail slot would be nicer, and if the mounts were set up in a split type arrangement, could be expanded to lock in the slot from below.

Just some thoughts!

-Rutager
rwest
 
Posts: 258
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:59 pm


Return to General DJ-1 Questions and Observations

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron