Custom Jaws for Curved Drilling

Moderator: Michael

Custom Jaws for Curved Drilling

Postby rwest » Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:40 am

Here is an idea on making a set of adjustable jaws to drill on the outside of a curved work piece or a bent wood lamination. Here is the jig in action.

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Side view showing adjustable buttons.

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End view showing the "T" slots

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Parts.

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Finished part. This could be used for joinery on a curve, the dowels could be flushed to the surface for a detail(maybe with graduated sizes), or it might make a cool "sunburst" effect on a stretcher of a table.

I also think that with the buttons moved in a slant, angle drilling on a straight part would work well also.

I used some small nylon spacers I had, but a slice of dowel would work as well.

Rutager

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Postby John » Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:38 am

Rutager;

Nicely done-you are the first $100 winner! Cool solution and congratulations.
Your Gift Certificate will be sent out this week.

--John
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Postby rwest » Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:18 am

Thanks John,

The more I look at this jig the more potential I think it has, I think a set of bars for each side that can be set at an angle or straight might be useful!

One thing I failed to mention was how I attached the jaws to the DJ-1. I placed them in the jig and lined them up then used a "vix" bit to drill from the mounting holes of the DJ-1 into the plywood. I then deepened the hole and tapped it with a 8-32 metal tap, then I flowed a bit of thin CA glue into the threaded holes in the plywood and let it completly dry, then re-tapped the holes. I had read about doing this somewhere, the CA makes the threads harder. The mounting screws seem very secure.

Rutager
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Postby John » Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:50 am

Rutager;

This tool is part of our development effort to allow woodworkers to do gallery quality work in small spaces (condo bedroom for example) without the need for dust collection.

When it was in testing, it became really clear to us (me for sure) that the paradigm of a drill press could be broken--perhaps a completely unnecessary stationary tool in what I believe will be the "shop of the future" for most avocational woodworkers.

Although your solution can be replicated on a drill press, there are variations of your need that would be impossible on a drill press because at some point the head of the drill press or the base of the drill press would become problematic.

In looking at your jig, it would be cool if you could position the work either convexly to the drill or concave to the drill--I am thinking blind holes here.

My last comment regarding your fixture was the use of a self-centering bit for locating the jaw mounting holes--in most cases, problems (such as this one) that can be solved empirically are are not only more accurate but are more efficient as well. You might want to show a pic of the vix bit for those that may never have seen one--

Again, congrats and keep us in the loop for further developments.

--John
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Postby rwest » Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:48 pm

Here is a photo of the vix bits, I have seen them with two different shanks, straight and hex like these. Buy the hex if you want to use them in the PB-1 palm brace or another quick release chuck. The vix bits enable you to drill in the center of a counter sunk hole, like on hinges and other hardware, or the mounting holes on the DJ-1.

Image

Rutager
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Postby rwest » Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:54 pm

John,

Here is a look at drilling on the inside of a curve with the DJ-1 and the custom jaw set.

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Side view.

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Final product.

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The bigger the radius, the better this will work. With a smaller radius the work has to be moved farther away from the DJ-1 due to the DJ-1's width. Which then leaves the working portion of the bit unsupported by the bushing. If I was to be making a special project, I think I would order a taller bushing from the company that Michael posted about, so that the bushing would touch the workpiece.

Rutager
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Postby savatteridesigns » Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:50 pm

rwest wrote:The bigger the radius, the better this will work. With a smaller radius the work has to be moved farther away from the DJ-1 due to the DJ-1's width. Which then leaves the working portion of the bit unsupported by the bushing. If I was to be making a special project, I think I would order a taller bushing from the company that Michael posted about, so that the bushing would touch the workpiece.
Rutager


Rutager,

I really like your custom jig for curved work.
I have two thoughts,
The first being I may have a solution for the "dropped bushing" scenario when the workpiece does not meet the bushing, I have the same issue as well with my "Blue Rover". I will only be able to fabricate the part that would solve this in a few weeks due to time constraints. I just thought I'd let you know before you order a bunch of tall bushings.
My second thought is a simple one, have you considered gluing on a layer of sheet cork or leather on the interior portion of your jaws to aid against slippage as your cranking down vise - and to protect a finished piece of work? I realize that if you did this it would have to be on your next version as you would need more room on the outer portion of your jig pass the track on either side.

cheers,
Roger
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Postby rwest » Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:44 pm

Hello Roger,

First off, thanks for the compliment! and I will keep an "eye" open for your solution.

I have only done testing on the jig, but since it is wooden, I haven't had a problem with marking. The other benefit of the jig is that The nylon buttons are supporting the work from beneath so I don't need to clamp the jaws super tight, since the drilling force is straight down.

I have one more use for this jig in it's current form and will try and post it soon.

Rutager
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