Dovetails

Moderator: Michael

Dovetails

Postby quiinc » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:15 pm

John, in the dovetail video on Youtube, the recommendaton is to make a zero-clearance throat plate for precise cutting. In your experimentation with the JMP, did you find the throat plate critical for dovetail cutting? What was your experience when you attempted to cut dovetails without the throat plate? I'm curious. Seems like the throat plate and spaces is a little cumbersome, but if your experience says it makes a big difference, then I'll go that way.

Chris
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Postby John » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:46 pm

Chris;

First, don't forget I am old and can't see. The only thing the throat plate does for me is provide a dead on reference for the location of the kerf--which I assume would be helpful for newbies.

If you can see, you can, with a bit of practice, get a feel for which side of your line to cut without the throat plate.

I am a "whatever works" guy so go for it and share!

John
Last edited by John on Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Michael » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:49 pm

The zero clearance throat plate makes it really really easy to line up your line on the wood. If you were doing one drawer then you could get away without the throat plate but if you were going to replicate your town Library's card catalog, I'd say it is worth the effort of making the throat plate.

Michael
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Postby quiinc » Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:38 pm

Thanks for the advice. I'll go with the spacers and throat plate and let you know how I do.
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Re: Dovetails

Postby dr.nono@sbcglobal.net » Sun Jun 19, 2011 2:47 pm

What blade is best for cutting dovetails, the crosscut or the rip? In the dovetail video it looked like a rip blade but I could not be sure.
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Re: Dovetails

Postby Michael » Mon Jun 27, 2011 3:39 pm

I use the Crosscut A 28 TPI blade for everything. I made a chest of drawers with 1/2" maple sides and it worked great.
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