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BridgeCityTools.com Serving Woodworkers Worldwide for a Quarter Century! 2013-06-22T19:05:18-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/feed.php?f=9 2013-06-22T19:05:18-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=405&p=1403#p1403 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: Automatic de-sawduster]]>
I am using an old school wooden fence which is quite long which gives the oversize tables some increased rigidity. The rest of the table is not strengthened (yet).

Statistics: Posted by paul@paulkirchnerstudios.com — Sat Jun 22, 2013 7:05 pm


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2013-06-22T11:17:14-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=405&p=1401#p1401 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: Automatic de-sawduster]]>
How does your toothbrush work? Do you just end up sawing all the bristles off?

I really like your accessory tables. Is there any additional support under the overhang to stop them flexing?

Statistics: Posted by PFranks — Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:17 am


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2013-06-21T11:21:43-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=405&p=1400#p1400 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Automatic de-sawduster]]> I'm looking for a way to get rid of the dust besides doing the finger swipe that is often recommended.

This is prototype folks, just to see what works and what doesn't. And in writing this I'm thinking actually the brush should be located behind the fence rather than in front the way I have it now.

A toothbrush hot glued down to a thin sheet of ply so I can position it in place. Right now this grip clipped to the main table. I found the OEM tables to be woefully inadequate for size. They're really the right size if you're only cutting pieces of wood a few inches long.

Will report back after more testing.
Image
Image

Statistics: Posted by paul@paulkirchnerstudios.com — Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:21 am


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2013-06-10T22:01:23-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=400&p=1392#p1392 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: "Zero Clearance" fence/table]]> http://www.jcxex.com/exp_gaffer_camera_tape.htm

Statistics: Posted by paul@paulkirchnerstudios.com — Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:01 pm


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2013-06-10T20:29:51-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=400&p=1391#p1391 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: "Zero Clearance" fence/table]]> Statistics: Posted by PFranks — Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:29 pm


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2013-06-10T18:25:10-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=399&p=1390#p1390 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: JMP Fence using Rockler Fence Clamps]]>
One clarification that some may not be aware of. I originally was using locknuts to hold the clamps in registration. You can see that on the second set of pictures which came from the class. After Rutager's efforts to replicate the design, I got some thread-lock adhesive and removed the lock nuts and tightened the threaded posts down all the way with the thread-lock and it works better now than with lock nuts.

BTW, this is the fastest way I have found for cutting dovetails on the JMP. Use two captive blocks on either side of the drawer or box side and flip around. The clamps hold the pieces in tight registration.

neil

Statistics: Posted by neil — Mon Jun 10, 2013 6:25 pm


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2013-06-10T17:49:36-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=400&p=1389#p1389 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • "Zero Clearance" fence/table]]> Image

Statistics: Posted by paul@paulkirchnerstudios.com — Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:49 pm


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2013-06-10T17:26:50-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=399&p=1388#p1388 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: JMP Fence using Rockler Fence Clamps]]> Clemmons Fence 011.JPG

Fence on the saw.
Clemmons Fence 012.JPG

The reason for the offset holes; easy stowing of the clamp when not being used.
Clemmons Fence 014.JPG

Here's a great use for this fence: holding "border" boards for doing repetitive cuts. The boards keep your stock registered and from shifting to the side as you make the cut. May also allow you to forgo clamping smaller stock which can greatly speed up your production line!
Clemmons Fence 016.JPG

Here it is being used to hold the wooden bias jig in place.
Fuchs, Wing cut MA 008.JPG

This is a great fence to add to your collection, thanks Neil!

-Rutager

Statistics: Posted by rwest — Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:26 pm


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2013-06-10T17:15:19-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=399&p=1387#p1387 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • JMP Fence using Rockler Fence Clamps]]>
Here's another cool idea that came to this April's JMP class. Neil Clemmons is the guy who thought up and engineered the original and with his permission, I made a similar one and am going to show it to you. Basically, you just drill holes along the top of the straight wooden fence and by using the clamps that are made to attach a sacrificial fence to a table saw fence, you have many options for clamp placement to hold stock or other sub fences like the wooden bias jig; it proved very handy during class and was probaby the most photographed thing in class. I started out with a 3/4" board 2 1/2" x 18" and then put a dovetail slot in it to attach to the JMP brackets.
Clemmons Fence 001.JPG

Next steps were to find the center using the CS-2 (using a mechanical pencil in it,) mark out 45 degrees on each side and cut it out for blade clearance.
Clemmons Fence 002.JPG
Clemmons Fence 003.JPG
Clemmons Fence 004.JPG
Clemmons Fence 005.JPG

Knocking off the sharp edge with the HP-6!
Clemmons Fence 006.JPG

Setting up the DJ-2 to drill 11/32" (3/8" works too) holes along the top; offset the driling jig about a 1/16" to the back to allow the clamps to swing and store out of the way on the side of the fence.

Clemmons Fence 007.JPG

Setting the depth of the holes with some tape for reference.
Clemmons Fence 008.JPG

Drilling holes; I went 1" to each side of center and then 1 1/2" apart the rest of the way.
Clemmons Fence 009.JPG

All the holes drilled.
Clemmons Fence 010.JPG

coming up next; fence on the JMP,
Rutager

Statistics: Posted by rwest — Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:15 pm


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2013-06-08T07:32:21-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=397&p=1385#p1385 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Bias Jigs For Wooden Fence from JMP Class]]>
This is a long overdue post from the class I took at Marc Adams school this April, taught by John Economaki on the JMP. The purpose of the class was to take our skills to a higher level and show us techniques to make our saws work as well as possible. John had us working on a chess set that he designed and was challenging to build. Our first assingnment was building the following jigs to hold pieces for cutting on the bias as well as straight on with the blade tilted to 45 degrees.
Bias Jig 002.JPG

The jigs are fairly simple; composed of 1/4" thick x 3 1/2" tall x 14" long Masonite boards with either 3/4" or 8/4" hardwood blocks attached at 90 degrees to the bottom edge; it is very important to get them glued on at 90 so you get an accurate cut.
Bias Jig 003.JPG

Cut a clearance "V" in each Masonite board, exact size isn't as important as making sure the blade clears the board; on the large jig, my "V" is 4" across and 3" high at the center; the small one is:1 1/2" across and 1" high. The holding block are about eight inches long at the begining and after the "V" is cut out you slice off the top 2 1/2" to make the clamp block. The "V" size on the big block is: 1 1/8" x 3/8" high; small block is: 7/16" x 1/4". after you slice the top off, use wood glue and a clamp to attach the pieces together; once again, use an accurate square to keep everything 90.
Bias Jig 004.JPG

Here's a photo of the jig being used with the offcut piece used to clamp the wood tightly in the block. Blade is at 45 degrees.
Fuchs, Wing cut MA 008.JPG

As time allows, I have several other jigs, set ups and techniques to post.

-Rutager

Statistics: Posted by rwest — Sat Jun 08, 2013 7:32 am


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2011-12-12T16:13:38-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=305&p=1138#p1138 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: Jig For Cutting Sliding Dovetails]]>
-Rutager

Statistics: Posted by rwest — Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:13 pm


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2011-12-12T16:10:46-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=305&p=1137#p1137 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Jig For Cutting Sliding Dovetails]]>
On a recent blog post of John's, he showed some beautiful puzzle boxes made by Dennis. Dennis said that he had trouble doing the sliding dovetails because the blade wants to wander when you try to get it to start cutting on the corner edge. It took me a little bit to figure out what the issue was, but once I got my pea brain around that, I came up with the idea of making an "L" out of two pieces of 3/8" baltic birch ply and then attaching it to my 90 degree fixture and fence that I have shown in another topic on the forum, and also attaching the piece of the "L" that would have been cut free to the table, basically making a blade guide.JMP Sliding Dovetails 005.JPG

Another view:JMP Sliding Dovetails 004.JPG

Marking where the blade should enterJMP Sliding Dovetails 002.JPG

Blade captured in jig to make cut:JMP Sliding Dovetails 006.JPG

Sliding dovetail after straight cut on another JMP!JMP Sliding Dovetails 010.JPG

The secret to making a cut like this and the ability to keep repeating on multipule pieces is that the blade is held between the two pieces of plywood even after it has been cut through due to clamping the one side to the table and the other to the 90 degree fixture.

-Rutager

Statistics: Posted by rwest — Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:10 pm


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2011-11-26T20:32:46-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=39&p=1127#p1127 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Re: First try at stand/bench hook]]>
Partly by being inspired by this thread here, and also by that thread there, I proudly hijack this thread here, trying to stay on-topic and presenting my light version of "JMP-bench hook" (or however you like to call it). It is made of scrap wood. No non-scraps were used, including the maple veneer on the outside of the front supporting wedges:

Image

It's up to your imagination to figure out why there's a hearing protection on top of the JMP.

As mentioned above I have seen this thread before my JMP arrived, but I did not remember someone else already has nailed his saw down to the stand or bench hook. The nails simply were the only objects in my trash-and-treasure box that would fit these holes in the lower stretchers. MikeDaum, if you read this: we have famous ancestors in this nailing - methodology, Stradivari already nailed the necks of his violins to their bodies (oh well, it was vice-versa: he nailed the bodies to the necks). That's not a joke.

Image

The front supporting wedge features a protruding strip of beech which fits in a dedicated groove in the bench, and the overhanging lower edge of the front plate acts as "main bench hook":

Image

The rear supporting wedge acts as a tool- and accessory holder:

Image

My JMP never needs to get separated from it's "bench hook" (or however you like to call it), it fits perfectly in the compartment of a new piece of "furniture" (no pictures - it is made of particleboard! Image ). Many thanks to Rutager who passed me on the exact dimensions of the completely assembled JMP in order I could make this cabinet before the JMP arrived.

That's it. Thanks for looking and reading.

Markus

Statistics: Posted by mschmid — Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:32 pm


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2011-09-13T17:21:41-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=284&p=1075#p1075 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • Hold Downs]]>

When I first started using my JM (I have the SW), I had a hard time figuring out how to secure my workpiece to the table so the blade couldn't push it up on the return stroke. Recently I tried Rockler's Deluxe Hold Down Clamp. It turned out to be a solution that works well for me, so I thought I would share:

JM-SW with straight and 90 degree fences:
(exuberant thanks to Rutager for making these for me)

JM-Fence Set 105.jpg


Work secured horizontally with Rockler hold down clamp:
(and ALSO... just because it happened to show up in today's mail...
... a Woodpecker's T-block. Handy little thing. Glad I got 6 of 'em.)


JM-Fence-Clamp+Block 106.jpg


Securing work for vertical half lap cut:
(Sorry, I'd already cut it, so we'll have to pretend...)

JM-Fence-Clamp Horizontal 1 107.jpg


Moving work to blade by adjusting position of 90 degree fence:

JM-Fence-Clamp Horizontal 2 108.jpg


Gratuitous shot of handy shop-made JM "Dust Collector" doing yeoman's work:
(by keeping dust off all the "stuff" on a shelf resting on the stretchers of the stand)

JM-Dust Collector 109.jpg


Setting fence for miter cut:
(this stop block makes a handy little, um... stop for THIS purpose, too)

JM-Fence-45 Degree 100.jpg


Stop block against end of stock for first 45 degree cut, with Rockler clamp
secured through slot in table to hold the work down:


JM-Fence-45 Degree Cut 1 101.jpg


Awwww. So cute! It just cut its first piece of oak!
(hey, what can I say? I warned you I was a newbie... :) )

JM-Fence-45 Degree Cut 1 Done 102.jpg


Slightly loosen the hold down clamp to easily swing it out of the way:

JM-Fence-45 Degree Cut-Clamp Adjust 103.jpg


Stop block repositioned for repeatable length cuts
with clamp swung back in place and tightened against work:


JM-Fence-45 Degree Cut 2 104.jpg

Statistics: Posted by LaurieBergren — Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:21 pm


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2011-03-09T08:26:13-07:00 https://www.bridgecitytools.com/discussion/viewtopic.php?t=252&p=1001#p1001 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Jig/Fixtures Accessories Idea Bank • ]]> Looking forward to them!

John G

Statistics: Posted by johnglendinning — Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:26 am


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