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[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 172: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66) Serving Woodworkers Worldwide for a Quarter Century! 2018-01-18T22:06:06-07:00 2018-01-18T22:06:06-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Blade Alignment]]>

Statistics: Posted by — Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:06 pm

2016-11-29T03:34:36-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs]]> Statistics: Posted by — Tue Nov 29, 2016 3:34 am

2016-11-28T03:34:57-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Saw blade height adjustment AND Keel Locking Knobs]]>
I'm guessing you don't have too many replacement keels lying around nowadays, so I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see what's causing it. :-(

Statistics: Posted by — Mon Nov 28, 2016 3:34 am

2014-08-20T15:55:08-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • SuperCharge Your Jointmaker Pro: Manual Correction/Updates]]>
On page 10, Box 11, Step One, the manual reads:
1.Attach the Black Saw Guide to the left side of the front and rear spine guides. The outside face of the Black Saw Guide should be perfectly flush with the outside faces of both Spine Guides.

Correction: The outside face of the Black Saw Guide should be proud of the outsides faces
of both Spine Guides by approximately 0.020”.

Explanation: We changed how we made the saw guides and are now using an extrusion. The geometry from the extrusion die is approximately 0.020” larger than from previous runs. Hence the change. This adjustment aligns the face of the saw guide that touches the blade with the face of the saw spine that the blade is clamped against. Those two faces need to be planar and this adjustment accomplishes that.

Here’s a fast way to accomplish the alignment of those two faces.
1)If a saw blade is inserted remove it.
2)Remove the Champagne Saw Guide – don’t lose your shim washer(s)!
3)Raise the saw spine to its highest position.
4)Using a 6” pocket rule, clamp the rule in the saw spine at the rear using the screws that normally tighten the blade.
5)Adjust the Black Saw Guide until the face is flush with the ruler face and slightly snug the screw.
6)Repeat at the front. (If you have two 6” rules, this is really fast). Once both ends are flush, tighten the Saw Guide screws and you will never need to adjust this again.

The pics below illustrate the setup:


This is worth checking regardless of the model year of your JMP. If the face of the black saw guide is not planar with the back face of the saw spine, it makes it difficult to get cuts that don’t drift.

Here’s a tip worth considering that makes a dramatic difference in the effort required to move the tables on the guide rails.

There are 8 linear bearings on your JMP. On the end of each bearing is a rubber seal with a small protruding ridge. This ridge was designed to sweep the shaft but it is, in my opinion designed incorrectly. It can, and has in a couple of cases collapsed and makes the bearing almost unbearably difficult to push. We are recommending that you carefully remove all 16 little ridges with a razor blade. The difference is unbelievable.

Make a small slice in the ridge and you can pull the bead off with needle nose pliers. Sometimes it comes off clean, sometimes it comes off in little pieces, either case, it is worth removing. Remove just the ridge, nothing else!

We have noticed no issues with the bearings after prolonged use and am now comfortable in suggesting you make this modification.

Here is a close up of the bead on the rubber seal:

Any really sharp edges makes this easy, here we are using an HP-6 iron:

This is what it looks like when complete:

Follow these instructions and your JMP will work as intended!

Statistics: Posted by Consuelo — Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:55 pm

2014-08-12T16:34:44-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]>
Glad you got it going - brass shim stock is a must in a shop!


Statistics: Posted by John — Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:34 pm

2014-08-12T16:10:26-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]> Statistics: Posted by — Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:10 pm

2014-08-11T09:09:00-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]>
1) Completely remove both the black (typo in the manual says "Back")and champagne saw guides, shim washers too.

2) Adjust the FRONT SPINE GUIDE so the orange Saw Spine moves up and down with little to no play between the front and rear spine guides. This should feel absolutely smooth as all get out. FYI, the rear spine guide is pinned to the keel and is non-adjustable.

3) Once you have the correct action, slide in one saw guide and screw tight on one end only! Note the gap on the opposite end between the saw guide and the spine guide. If you can easily slide in the provided shim washer, then you do indeed need another.

4) The thickness of the additional shim washers can be closely estimated by using typing paper shims (approx. 0.003" each) in addition to the shim washers provided. If you have a set of pin gages you can find out which pin fits. Either case, do your best to estimate what additional thickness you require and contact us for the necessary shim washers.

That said, since you cranked the train until the gears started to slip, you may need to send us your assembled keel for gear replacements. Either case, we will get you up and running ASAP.


Statistics: Posted by John — Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:09 am

2014-08-09T09:57:46-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]> Statistics: Posted by — Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:57 am

2011-12-21T08:46:22-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]>

Statistics: Posted by Michael — Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:46 am

2011-12-21T07:37:41-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]>
And thankfully, I won't need any extra shim washers... when I tried to tackle the keel again last night, all the binding from the previous night had gone away!

Must have been that bath tub of Tri-flow I soaked the Keel in overnight. :)

Seriously, though, I applied a couple of drops of Tri-flow to the Uprights (where it bears against the saw spine). This may have helped with the binding. Or maybe I got lucky....


Statistics: Posted by — Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:37 am

2011-12-20T12:19:31-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]> It is ok to have a a little bit of play.
It is possible that you may need an extra shim washer.

Are you finding that you can crank the blade up, but it binds a bit on the way down?
As a test, loosen 1 screw on each Saw Blade Guide (the black and gray parts that sandwich the blade).
Now try the crank again.

If it is running smoothly, I can send an additional shim washer for you to insert between the Saw Blade Guide and the Uprights.

You will have a tiny bit of longitudinal play, but it will be ok.

- Michael

Statistics: Posted by Michael — Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:19 pm

2011-12-20T11:25:47-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Keel assembly]]>
Whenever I try adjusting the Spine guides (backward and/or forward) to take up the slack in the saw spine, the action of lowering/raising the spine is no longer as "smooth as butter"....

i.e. I can't seem to get both a smooth turning transmission AND zero longitudinal movement in the saw spine.

I've watched all the videos on the subject and read as many posts as I can get my hands on. The bearing blocks and spine guides appear to be perpendicular to the keel. I'd appreciate any advice or helpful assistance.

As an aside, this Keel is part of a JM-SW (not a JMP-V2) but I presume the details are the same.

Thanks in advance,

Statistics: Posted by — Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:25 am

2011-11-15T18:31:32-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Bag 4 washers?]]>

Statistics: Posted by Michael — Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:31 pm

2011-11-14T10:05:28-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Re: Sacrificial Fences...]]> Try further loosening the dovetails nuts if the it is difficult to slide on.

Let us know how it works out.


Statistics: Posted by Michael — Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:05 am

2011-11-13T21:17:36-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro Set-Up & Assembly FAQ • Bag 4 washers?]]>
I am building my joint maker now. Bag four includes 8 washers. I am guessing they are used in step 18 when the linear rails are screwed onto the frame -- is this correct? It doesn't say to do so in step 18 but I'm not sure where else they would be used.

Statistics: Posted by — Sun Nov 13, 2011 9:17 pm