Strict Standards: Non-static method phpbb_feed_factory::init() should not be called statically in /home/bridgec/ on line 66
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 171: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 172: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66) Serving Woodworkers Worldwide for a Quarter Century! 2018-01-20T16:18:55-07:00 2018-01-20T16:18:55-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Where to buy shims for saw guides]]>
While doing basic maintenance on the machine the last couple of days I found quite a lot of back to front play in the saw spine, so I adjusted the front spine guide to remove the play. however, when I tightened the gray/champagne saw guide the saw would bind on the way down--so much so that I could not lower it. I suspect that I need more shims, at least on the gray guide.

I'm open for other things to look for here. I also checked the alignment of the black guide to the saw spine using scraper cards (my BCTW rules seem too thick). My guide definitely was installed wrong because I had it flush with the outside of the spine guide, which meant it was not aligned with the left interior wall of the saw spine.

So out I go in search of shims today, but all I could find at the big box store that seemed even close to the right diameter were #10 lockwashers and #4S brass flat washers that I could drill out to fit the bolts in the guides. Online it looks like superior washer as the .310 x .025, but I'm not seeing the .01. Anyone know of place where I can buy an assortment in the right OD and ID but different thicknesses?

Statistics: Posted by — Sat Jan 20, 2018 4:18 pm

2017-05-20T02:00:06-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Forum still active]]>
Active might be a strong word! I check the forum out every couple days and try to be as helpful as I can. I also have a couple jig ideas floating around my head that if/when built will get posted.

I do like that this forum is more of a serious help and idea forum rather than just one that people use to "fun" around on- not that that is bad, just that there are so many social woodworking forums already.

Please ask any questions you may have, I know I'll try and help and John Economaki will chime in as needed.


Statistics: Posted by rwest — Sat May 20, 2017 2:00 am

2017-05-17T10:11:51-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Forum still active]]> Statistics: Posted by — Wed May 17, 2017 10:11 am

2014-06-07T10:22:44-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Jointmaker Pro for sale]]> Statistics: Posted by — Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:22 am

2014-04-17T14:44:08-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Can the JMP Rip boards?]]>
Yes, it will rip up to about 6" in length. The blade teeth tend to load up a little more, so cleaning the teeth with a small brush every couple strokes makes it easier. There is a rip blade available as well, keep in mind that dovetails are mostly rip cuts, but very short and the standard crosscut blade works just fine for them.


Statistics: Posted by rwest — Thu Apr 17, 2014 2:44 pm

2014-04-15T09:33:47-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Can the JMP Rip boards?]]> Statistics: Posted by — Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:33 am

2014-02-04T14:55:56-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Bench Hook for the JMP.]]>
Appreciate it!

Statistics: Posted by — Tue Feb 04, 2014 2:55 pm

2012-11-19T02:37:02-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Replacement Blades]]> equipments manufacturers, so better to make use of technology.

Statistics: Posted by — Mon Nov 19, 2012 2:37 am

2011-08-25T10:13:43-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Half Blind Dovetails on the JM]]> I'm wondering if anyone else has attempted it and if so how they made out. If need be I will describe how I got it to work in a few days.

Statistics: Posted by — Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:13 am

2011-08-01T16:37:57-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Overall dimensions Jointmaker Pro v2]]>
Thank you very much for the detailed measurements! This will serve me a lot for getting done the adequate storage cabinet before my magic machine will arrive. :-)

Best regards,

Statistics: Posted by mschmid — Mon Aug 01, 2011 4:37 pm

2011-07-30T08:36:50-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Overall dimensions Jointmaker Pro v2]]>
I just took some measurements and found that the main body is 26" the front crank sticks out 4.5" and the back knob about 1"- so 31.5" would be close. Width is a tad over 16". Height is 12" with the metal fence installed, but they're easily removed bringing the height to 10". With the wooden fence installed; 13.5"


Statistics: Posted by Rutager — Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:36 am

2011-07-24T17:48:01-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Overall dimensions Jointmaker Pro v2]]>
The specifications of the Jointmaker seem to be clear:

The dimensions of the JMPv2 is 28" x 16" x 12" tall

But... are these the overall dimensions including crank and everything?
Or in other words, would the completely assembled Jointmaker fit in a box of 28" x 16" x 12" ?

Statistics: Posted by mschmid — Sun Jul 24, 2011 5:48 pm

2011-05-18T08:43:38-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Table decals]]> Drop me an email and we can have some replacement tables sent out to you.

Statistics: Posted by Michael — Wed May 18, 2011 8:43 am

2011-05-10T21:56:02-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Table decals]]>

The graphic images you are referring to are laser etched into the aluminum.

I'm glad you responded. I see now what you mean. I just assumed they were decals and that it was the cause of the problem. Since I bought this used, I was fortunate enough to have it already assembled, so I did not go through all of the alignments and calibrations, etc.

Anyway, now that I have dispensed with my faulty assumptions, I went and put a straightedge on it. I discovered that the left wing has a bit of a bow to it. I clamped a straightedge lightly on the left side (just so it wouldn't fall over) and measured a .014" gap at the right edge. I'll guess that this implies a .007" high spot in the center; it seems fairly symmetrical. The right wing is very slightly cupped. It dips .003" in the very center.

I'm a little surprised at that amount of bow, considering how narrow the wings are and they appear to be milled. Is that a limitation of aluminum?

Statistics: Posted by — Tue May 10, 2011 9:56 pm

2011-05-06T12:33:09-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro General Questions • Re: Table decals]]>
It is interesting that you are experiencing this, they are only a few thousandths deep. That said, you could "skin" you table tops with a thin film of self-adhesive, clear plastic. Don't know where to get it, but it is out there. You would then need to cut out all the opening with a razor knife.

I hope this helps.


Statistics: Posted by — Fri May 06, 2011 12:33 pm