Strict Standards: Non-static method phpbb_feed_factory::init() should not be called statically in /home/bridgec/ on line 66
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 171: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /feed.php on line 172: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /feed.php:66) Serving Woodworkers Worldwide for a Quarter Century! 2017-07-01T19:41:10-07:00 2017-07-01T19:41:10-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Production Update]]> Statistics: Posted by — Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:41 pm

2017-01-26T18:37:29-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Binding with saw guides tightened.]]> Statistics: Posted by — Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:37 pm

2016-03-07T12:30:55-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Longitudinal movement of the saw spine]]>

Statistics: Posted by John — Mon Mar 07, 2016 12:30 pm

2016-02-21T22:16:40-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Longitudinal movement of the saw spine]]>

Statistics: Posted by — Sun Feb 21, 2016 10:16 pm

2016-02-16T17:36:54-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Binding of Assembled Keel]]>
You probably already know this, but you should grab onto the middle of the keel to adjust the angle- the round tube between the gears.


Statistics: Posted by rwest — Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:36 pm

2016-02-15T16:30:58-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Binding of Assembled Keel]]>
I mounted and adjusted the front and rear trunnions as per step 14 (page 11) and ensured there was no movement perpendicular to the tracks while still being able to move them freely along the tracks. I next installed the keel assembly as per step 15 (page 12) and with the fasteners snugged up I was still able to move the keel easily. As per step 16, I have checked that there is no lateral movement of the keel.

Once I progressed to step 18 (page 13) and had the linear rails installed I checked the angular movement of the keel and found it to be extremely difficult. I have checked to ensure the keel lock knobs were not tightened and that I did not missed anything else obvious.

In an attempt to investigate / rectify the matter I loosed the cap screws which fix the keel to the front / rear trunnion and checked the clearance on the trunnions within the guides. No issue there.

Upon reinstalling the keel I was able to install the front keel lock knob (with the inner and outer nylon washer. The issue I've encountered was when I tried reinstalling the rear keel lock knob. While the outer nylon washer is not an issue, I'm finding that there is absolutely no room for the inner washer. I expect the inner and outer washers are there to provide increased friction between the plates (front and rear) and the keel when the angle is fixed but what I'm encountering is far in excess of what I would have expected, given the ease of movement shown on the videos.

Any guidance with this will be appreciated.

Statistics: Posted by — Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:30 pm

2015-04-03T08:49:28-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Cutting plexiglas?]]>

Statistics: Posted by — Fri Apr 03, 2015 8:49 am

2014-08-20T05:19:11-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: How much longitudinal play = "no play"?]]>
Knowing that the bearing block pins are a new addition from prior revisions, I did rotate the bearing blocks in case they were drilled slightly off-center . . . no, they weren't <smile>.

In the unlikely event that the longitudinal play increases after burn-in, a brass washer made of appropriately sized shim stock on the shaft between the handle-side bearing block and shaft threads will solve the problem for anyone else with anal-retentive tendencies like mine <smile>.

Statistics: Posted by — Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:19 am

2014-08-18T10:18:07-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: How much longitudinal play = "no play"?]]>

Statistics: Posted by John — Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:18 am

2014-08-16T09:39:23-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • How much longitudinal play = "no play"?]]>
At assembly step 3, I have residual longitudinal play in the front shaft equal to 0.002". There is no longitudinal play in the rear shaft, just the 0.002 in the front shaft assembly. Mechanically, this looks to be unavoidable as there is no shimming option in the bearing block and the play is really a function of the distance between the face of the bearing block and back of the gear on the front shaft assembly itself.

Before the burn in step, I'd like to be confident that this small amount of play is within specs. If not, some suggestions on how to remove the play would be helpful.

Statistics: Posted by — Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:39 am

2014-04-01T09:11:32-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Cutting plexiglas?]]>
I have cut plexiglas and it is an ugly cut and ruins a $25 blade. So NO.

Interestingly, lots of people have inadvertently cut their aluminum precision fence by accident - including me. You don't know it is happening until you see aluminum dust on the tables... it too ruins blades. So, NO.


Statistics: Posted by — Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:11 am

2014-03-31T22:10:15-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Cutting plexiglas?]]>
Wondering if the JMP Pro blade will cut Aluminium T-Tracks,without harm to the blade?
Thank You,

Statistics: Posted by — Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:10 pm

2013-04-01T17:34:59-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: LED Task Light]]>
Cool idea; can you try to shine the light up from below the table to see if it helps index the cut line better?


Statistics: Posted by rwest — Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:34 pm

2013-04-01T08:27:43-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • LED Task Light]]>
The design of the Loc-Line fittings permits a wide range of adjustment that then holds its position very well.

Statistics: Posted by — Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:27 am

2013-01-31T09:49:17-07:00 <![CDATA[Jointmaker Pro v2 • Re: Precision or really.. lack of precision]]> Statistics: Posted by — Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:49 am