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	<title>Comments on: Ideas are everywhere when you&#8217;re hungry&#8230;</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/2008/05/01/ideas-are-everywhere-when-youre-hungryis/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/2008/05/01/ideas-are-everywhere-when-youre-hungryis/</link>
	<description>Behind the Scenes at Bridge City Tool Works</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2009 21:09:02 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/2008/05/01/ideas-are-everywhere-when-youre-hungryis/comment-page-1/#comment-25</link>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 May 2008 16:37:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/?p=11#comment-25</guid>
		<description>The 90 degree reference on our guide does not need to be removed with the exception of wide plane irons (it easily slides in and out of a dovetailed way)and if an iron/chisel scoots off 90 degrees in our guide I would expect it to be returned for a refund. (I have never seen the guide you own so I can't comment on it.) 

The math on a camber roller does not make sense to us. If one wants to make a .002"-.003" camber on a plane iron, the roller (because it is narrow than the iron) needs a camber of about .001". In practice, it is just easier to "overpower" the corners of your iron with pressure to achieve the same result. That said, if you have a lathe or drill press, you can make your own camber roller and insert it into the HG-1--it is easily field removed. 

There are a couple of tools where a more aggressive cambered roller does make sense and if we get enough requests, we will offer a solution as an accessory.

We are really happy with this little guy and it is particularly useful for our HP-6 owners--all those  irons need to be square and the micro-adjuster is critical because they are profiled irons.

Hope this helps.

-John</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The 90 degree reference on our guide does not need to be removed with the exception of wide plane irons (it easily slides in and out of a dovetailed way)and if an iron/chisel scoots off 90 degrees in our guide I would expect it to be returned for a refund. (I have never seen the guide you own so I can&#8217;t comment on it.) </p>
<p>The math on a camber roller does not make sense to us. If one wants to make a .002&#8243;-.003&#8243; camber on a plane iron, the roller (because it is narrow than the iron) needs a camber of about .001&#8243;. In practice, it is just easier to &#8220;overpower&#8221; the corners of your iron with pressure to achieve the same result. That said, if you have a lathe or drill press, you can make your own camber roller and insert it into the HG-1&#8211;it is easily field removed. </p>
<p>There are a couple of tools where a more aggressive cambered roller does make sense and if we get enough requests, we will offer a solution as an accessory.</p>
<p>We are really happy with this little guy and it is particularly useful for our HP-6 owners&#8211;all those  irons need to be square and the micro-adjuster is critical because they are profiled irons.</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
<p>-John</p>
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		<title>By: kwcabs</title>
		<link>http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/2008/05/01/ideas-are-everywhere-when-youre-hungryis/comment-page-1/#comment-24</link>
		<dc:creator>kwcabs</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 May 2008 09:03:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bridgecitytools.com/blog/?p=11#comment-24</guid>
		<description>Hi John, I'm curious about this honing guide.  First off, it looks very nice and seems to be feature packed.  I'm currently using a Veritas MKII guide, that appears to be very similar in terms of functionality, but there are two short comings that I find with it, and I am wondering if your's corrects.  

First, the clamping secion on the Veritas has two screws and essentially bends a bar around your iron slightly to provide pressure.  I find it doesn't really secure the iron well though no matter how tight you make it and there is always a chance that the blade can skew from 90 degrees.  Don't get me wrong, it's firmly in place but not so much so that some hand pressure couldn't move it.  I'm curious how well does the clamping mechanism work on the Bridge City guide?  

Secondly, the Veritas has a fence that you set the blade to 90 but it is then removed.  Am I correct in saying that on the Bridge City guide the fence is always in place?  Because that's what it looks like in the pictures.

Last, do you have any plans on offering a camber roller as well?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi John, I&#8217;m curious about this honing guide.  First off, it looks very nice and seems to be feature packed.  I&#8217;m currently using a Veritas MKII guide, that appears to be very similar in terms of functionality, but there are two short comings that I find with it, and I am wondering if your&#8217;s corrects.  </p>
<p>First, the clamping secion on the Veritas has two screws and essentially bends a bar around your iron slightly to provide pressure.  I find it doesn&#8217;t really secure the iron well though no matter how tight you make it and there is always a chance that the blade can skew from 90 degrees.  Don&#8217;t get me wrong, it&#8217;s firmly in place but not so much so that some hand pressure couldn&#8217;t move it.  I&#8217;m curious how well does the clamping mechanism work on the Bridge City guide?  </p>
<p>Secondly, the Veritas has a fence that you set the blade to 90 but it is then removed.  Am I correct in saying that on the Bridge City guide the fence is always in place?  Because that&#8217;s what it looks like in the pictures.</p>
<p>Last, do you have any plans on offering a camber roller as well?</p>
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